Seat of Our Pants

Just when you think you’re going to scream from claustrophobia and butt pain, along comes a diversion that saves the day. Martin and I had been sitting in our wood-backed bench seats en route to Mandalay for six or so hours. Because we were so late getting on the train, our bench-mate had taken the liberty of packing in a few huge baskets and sacks of god-knows-what into our foot space. In other words, we couldn’t have been in a more uncomfortable situation.

Our only diversion was staring out the window, which at times became slightly awkward. You see, we were the only foreigners on our train. This fact not only drew attention from inside our car, but also at each station we stopped at. The food hawkers and passing adults were kind enough to give us a quick stare, then move on, but the children were a different story. Each station brought a little crowd of kids, some staring, some waving, some yelling at the two pale-faced foreigners.

The stop that helped stave the boredom and brought a smile to our faces was different. The expected little group of children had gathered to watch us. This time, however, they came bearing gifts. One of the smallest walked up to our window and held up a little bracelet.

“Presen,” he squeaked. He ran back to the safety of the group that had broken into a fit of giggles.

Martin and I did a quick inventory of our stuff, feeling we needed to give something in return. I pulled up my sleeve to reach deep into my basket and revealed a lacquer ware bracelet on my wrist. I’d received it in Bagan as part of a purchase I’d made. No harm would come in giving it away (and, as it turns out, Martin hated it but hadn’t told me). I handed it down to the now very excited group as the train started to pull away from the station.

“Than u! Than u!” they called out in unison while waving goodbye. I had just barely enough time to snap a quick photo before we headed on our way. It couldn’t have been more than a five minute exchange, but the thought of it got us through the next six hours of our ride. It’s the little things in life, really, and that exchange was a special little thing, indeed.

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