Seat of Our Pants

With over 4,000 to choose from, it’s not terribly difficult to find a favorite stupa in Bagan. Some are huge while some are no taller than me (that’s a whopping 5′ 4”). Most are red brick ruins in varying degrees of decay, but some have been rebuilt and painted a blinding white or gold leafed (the supposed original state of these structures). Their shape can be bulbous knobs, brick cubes, multi-leveled spires or fairytale-style castles. They’re also a stone’s throw away from one another, so you’re literally surrounded in choices.

Like I said, with the sheer number and variety of them, you’re bound to find something here you can fall in love with. My favorite was Dhamma-ya-za-ka Zedi in the southern part of the valley. Unlike many of the big temples around, which are suffering from structural issues, the Dhamma-blah-blah-blah can be climbed. The way up is by the stairways tucked behind the structures that are attached to the outside of the main building.

Scrambling up these stairs offers a stunning view of the valley. Unlike the lame Bagan Viewing Tower, you’ll find this view is good on the soul – it’s free so no money goes into the government’s pockets (that is, except for the $10 you originally paid to visit Bagan). We also shared the view with exactly one other person – so, shhhhh. The Dhamma Blah-Blah-Blah Zedi can be our little secret.

View from Dhamma-ya-za-ka Zedi

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